They also look great on a feminine shirt dress or as a contrast on casual clothes, like my oversize dress “Carrie” (link to my personal sewing blog). Time to pin the rest of the seam inbetween my “guide pins”. You are a great inspiration and a wonderful entrepreneur. See? Use lots of pins, too. It’s too small of an area to unpick and I’ve already trimmed it too close. BERNINA Corporate Blog - top news of the world's leading manufacturer of sewing machines and quilting machines. Flip it around and sew the other side from centre back to the end. I can revoke my consent to the promotional use of my data at any time and at no cost.*. That includes a classic, menswear inspired shirt collar. Hi! $34.64 $ 34. Press to the WS. Thank you so much Benina. Now lay the other collar stand on top of the neckline, from the inside of the shirt. And for women who find a certain comfort in doing it. I use iron-on interfacing on one piece of each. When you are finished with sewing, trim the seam allowance at the collar points diagonally in a shallow angle, as close to the seam at the point as possible. The fold of fabric needs to sit on the wrong side of the collar stand. With all notches and markings matching, pin the lower edge of the stand to the neckline of the shirt through all three thicknesses. This makes sure we sew up the stand and leave the correct size of opening to sew the collar in. collar, collar stand, collar stand template, granville shirt, shirtmaking, shirts, Interesting… It is different from how I’m used to sew the collar and colla stand. 5 out of 5 stars (17) 17 reviews. I’ll show you how to apply it to the neck in the next segment. I stick the pins right through the seam of stand and neck. How to do it? It’s fun to try something new. FREE Shipping by Amazon. Roll the shirtfront out of the way of the seam allowance; it should sit in the finished area of the band collar. Now, I fold the edge of the stand over so the raw edge points into the stand. Pin non-interfaced band collar to the interfaced collar, right sides together. A straight collar is the most used formal type of collar. Below is a look at the inner stand with the outer stand peaking out – almost the same trick I apply at the collar. Check out all posts on shirtmaking here! If you follow my lead, I’m sure your collar will look sharp, crisp and nice! This is my first collar (stand) ever. 1. I do wonder if I should press in between somewhere or perhaps grade the seam before folding the standing parts upwards. Again, I like to start with the center back. It looks like you might have a perfect way to sew this band on and have sharp corners. I like it because you get to place the collar into the stand, getting it right where you want it, rather than sewing the collar-stand unit to the shirt and hoping it was in the right place to begin with. :), I have the same book and followed that method. It makes it so much clearer. Before you sew your collar stand to your shirt, check that the two sides are perfectly even. More shirtmaking information today. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. Karen: Hi Lili, Pussy Bow collar / Tie neck collar; Turned up collar; Barrymore Collar; This is a shirt collar with long tapered points. This helps attaching the stand with a clean look without bulk. All that’s missing now is the buttonhole in the collar stand. Lie your work down, right side up, and start to stitch directly in the seam that attaches stand and neck. Change a Shirt Collar Into a Mandarin Collar With NO Sewing: Living in a hot climate, I love wearing light weight shirts and blouses, but I hate the collars on them. Sewing a shirt collar isn’t difficult, but it takes a little bit of patience, time and sewing experience. Use Spray Starch. Start with your collar piece in main fabric, and one shirt collar piece cut from interfacing. We use cookies to improve your experience. Sew the collar pieces together, using a straight stitch and the seam allowance according to the pattern piece. I also took photos of my collar sewing process. Then I flipped it around and sewed from centre again to the other end of the neckline. Step 7 Now turn the collar-stand inside out again, place it upside down, and pull the shirt through the collar opening of the stand. It’s not much and shouldn’t be a problem. Among the blog readers who show their finished quilt top on Instagram or in our community, we’re giving away a BERNINA 570 QE! The best way to get your collar to stand up properly is to be sure to unbutton the collars when you launder the shirt, then take them out of the dryer as soon as they are done and hang them with the collars still standing. Pin the under collar to the garment RST and sew in place. Copyright © 2008-2020 BERNINA International AG | System powered by Inpsyde. Thanks Tasia , your posts are really helpful ! Click here to sign in. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Good steps but I agree with Barbara that it’s hard to see what’s what with the print. $71.49 $ 71. I’m lining up the rounded edge with the other rounded edge here. Then I poked a pin into the collar stand where the collar stand ends. You still have a collar stand piece, this one non-interfaced. I never get sick of looking at this fabric! Contribute and be creative! Suggestion: As lovely as the fabric is, I am having a difficult time discerning between fabric pieces and thread because the fabric is beautifully “busy.”. This post is kind of long already, so I’ll write about sewing the collar into the stand in a separate post. Turn to face, tuck seam allowances into collar stand and press. Make sure to fold it in enough so that the folded seam allowance will be caught by the seam, but the folded edge needs to lie over the seam that attaches the outer stand to the neck. It’s easy to attach a ribbon to your inner collar stand to make your shirt more special but it also gives the collar stand more stability and is used in men’s shirts to reduce wear. When finished with pinning, sew the seam with your seam allowance. Staystitch the neckline of your shirt and clip along the staystitching, making sure not to cut the staystitching thread. This makes sure we sew up the stand and leave the correct size of opening to sew the collar in. Darn! Line up the edges of the collar and the neckline of the shirt so that the right sides of both pieces are together. The collar stand pattern pieces have a little mark at the center front. While ironing your shirt, make sure you spray on some starch (you can find it at most supermarkets) on the collar, let it sit for a while, and then pass the iron to make the starch settle in. See photo 7. Now it’s time to turn the collar. You can decide not to use fusible interfacing but if you want to add to your collar a crisp look and give it some extra support, we recommend interfacing your pieces. I love these posts that show different... Jayne Reed: My mat's a little thick, too, and I ended up trim... Jayne Reed: I'm an older lady who made this in the senior cen... Lena: I think its hard to find a good fabric here in Swe... Sue @ A Colourful Canvas: Hey...thanks for the mention Lili! You made sewing shirt collar look so easy. At this point, the collar will begin. Now I just have to get my sewing machine back from the store that is servicing it. Shirts for Women Stand-Up Collar Vintage Victoria Ruffle Long Sleeve. Straight Collars: These are the basic shirt collar. You haven't registered for the BERNINA blog yet? Turn under the neck edge of the top collar by your SA. I also like to trim the seam allowance at the “bottom” of the collar where it will be attached to the stand to prevent bulk. Now the collar is finished! Make sure you are folding the inner collar right along the edge of the button placket. I know it should be simple, but can you please clarify the interfacing and folding of the right and left bottom-strips? I read them, they were standard and I think that the series of post written by Tasia provides great information if you are into the Coffin’s method. Now, pin the collar stand to the neckline of your shirt. God bless you. We are looking forward to your pictures! I always stitch in the ditch because I like the clean look of it. We’ll sew the stand to the shirt body, and then attach the collar to the stand. It was really nice to meet you on Saturday at Fabrics Etc. I love to make shirts like this but have not tried this method for the collar, but I will now. You can trim the rest of the front seam allowance of the collar stand now, too. Ideally, the upper collar should have a little access fabric, creating a little “bubble” between the under collar. This makes it easier to trim the allowances later. During my apprenticeship, I learned that alternating between layers while clipping instead of clipping both at the same point prevents curves from getting little jags. 49. For this pattern, the collar pieces are the same. FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. I really like the stretching technique for the top collar, it’s made it curve so nicely. Kay Ireland specializes in health, fitness and lifestyle topics. Collar Method 1 - Add Up Neckline Length & Draw. They just stand up. You are welcome to copy this banner and use it on your blog or social media channels. Turn inside out and make sure everything looks good and you didn’t catch fabric you weren’t supposed to. By now you’ve made your collar, and have set it aside for attaching later: And your shirt needs to be constructed to the point where you can attach the collar stand: yoke sewn to front and back, front bands sewn to the centre front. My collar stand is longer on one side, the uninterfaced side. Remember that the first few centimeters of the stand are already secured. It seemed to work pretty well, but now I wish I had waited a bit for your post, since you have such nice pictures. Clip as much as you need to so the neckline can lay flat against the collar stand. Now pin the collar to the top edge of the top collar stand, matching notches. Before going on, you can baste the layers together; make sure the edges align this time and secure with stitch length of 4-5. It was either have posts now, or wait until I had time to resew them, and who knows how long that would be :) Most sewing patterns have only one piece for the collar itself. Another great tip I learned is not to start the the lower edge of the collar stand, but to start where the seam allowance ends. Your email address will not be published. We developed these styles specifically to combat floppy collars. 🙂, Topics to this post Next, I pin the rest of the seam. Subscribe to the newsletter and receive news, promotions and projects directly in your inbox. Now sew the collar stand to the neckline. Step 8 That’s all right with me though! I struggled with my first shirt collar and stand, but will try again following your great tutorial ! This is called “stitching in the ditch”, because you try to place your seam in the ditch between the two layers, where there is already a seam that connects those two layers. Doesn’t it look nice? It is usually a small high stand collar. You can of course mark the seam line if you want more guidance. Stitch the shirt to the stand at 5/8″ seam allowance. So if it’s your first collar, you can practice by leaving away some of the refinements first. To redo them with new contrasting materials would mean a much longer wait to have the information up! Don’t sew past the front bands, stop as soon as you reach the edge of the front band. Next, I pin the front. This next part is where you need the completed collar. Hundreds of thousands of … But, I just couldn’t wait to finish my Granville! And they are the exact same shape, which was the goal of using the template. The collar stand pattern pieces have a little mark at the center front. Pull the pins out just when you are almost about to hit them with the needle; if you pull them out too soon, the fabric could shift and your folded edge could become undone. I like to press the collar so that the upper collar juts out a smidge, about 1 mm. Buy no matter what I do, I get the collar stand wrong. Learn how to stop your shirt collar from folding. I love precision sewing. Place one side on top of the other, matching stand positions and collar angles. I came up with this idea of cutting the collar off, which makes … (Good to know if you are using contrast fabrics for your shirt!). This means it needs to be a little bit longer than the under collar so the latter doesn’t peek out. This is going to be the collar stand that sits on the outside of your neck, not the inside. 4.4 out of 5 stars 293. Trim very close to your stitching, about 1/8″ (3mm) away. That’s the exact middle of the garment where the button placket and by extension the collar stand will overlap. I’d advise you to sew with the outer stand facing upwards and using the seam that you already sewed as a guide – you can sew just right over this existing seam. 4.3 out of 5 stars 30. Subscribe to our e-mail newsletter to receive updates. Join the Sugaridoo Quilt Along! My tips and techniques are for a clean, professional finish. Run the iron over the crease to stiffen. You are pinning the right side of your collar stand to the right side of your shirt neckline. Pin the collar between the two collar pieces. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. You are the proud owner of a BERNINA sewing machine and want to show that? Following along with my own collar stand your tutorial can be figured out quite well. Rather, set it a little bit towards the back. As you might have guessed, the difference is in the width of the collar itself. I lined up the collar in the middle, so it’s centered evenly over centre back. Then draw in the … The book from Coffin is on the way to me, thank you for talking about it. I love this pattern. It’s so beautiful and bright and not too flowery. Fold it down and press onto the ironing board. The prepared source code will help you to integrate the banner into your blog. Complete guide on how to Instantly get your shirt collar to stand up and look perfect all day? Stitch shirt to collar at 5/8″ seam allowance and press seam up. The reason you cut one side of the shirt is because one side gets the button band, the other is simply folded over and topstitched. For people who love women wearing blouses or shirts with the collar turned up. Make sure to secure the seam. Portrait collar . You can start where the seam we did on the inside ends. To have a seam that’s beautiful on the inside too (in case you want to wear the collar open some time), I close the first few centimeters of the inner collar stand seam from the inside. $22.82 $ 22. Je n’étais pas du tout convaincue au début par cette technique de montage alambiquée mais […], […] the collar: Sewaholic blog for the David Page Coffin […], Sewing projects, tips and inspiration for the modern seamstress and the sewing blog of Sewaholic Patterns, How To Widen a Sleeve (Full Bicep Adjustment), Fraser Sweatshirt: Sewing the Set-In Collar, Shirtmaking: Completing Our Collar and Collar Stand, Moooaaar Shirts – Sewaholic Granville, a review – Sewing Tidbits, Sewing a Collar Stand, The Shirtmaking Way, (Chemise) #6 Granville au printemps | Une parisienne en Helvétie, Floral Voile Shirt: Burda 6849 - Mood Sewing Network, Floral Riot, Burda 6849 from Mood Fabrics NY | Sew Busy Lizzy. The Shirtmaking book I’m referencing has a completely different approach to sewing the collar stand than usual methods.